Canon EOS 5D Mark III 22.3 MP Full Frame CMOS Digital SLR Camera with EF 24-70mm f/4 L IS Kit specifications, useful information and costumer reviews who currently bought as well as best price along with pretty good discount.
A large number of hobbyists are desiring for any DSLR, the fact is definitely that they have no idea what it is exactly, if have, just just like “It is like the compact one in my own pocket, it will be better, this is a major one. In my way to explain a DSLR, it might be ‘All-Round’, you can use the DSLR for almost anything, taking pictures of beautiful animals, beautiful landscapes or amazing astronomy, recording vivid good quality video clips. And there is a significant difference on the price too. Just how much are you ready to pay for a decent camera that matches your needs?
This product produced by Canon become one of the top recomended DSLR Camera since a lot of buyers fulfilled after using this product. In addition to its features, the best price also becomes a factor. This article is a review about Canon EOS 5D Mark III 22.3 MP Full Frame CMOS Digital SLR Camera with EF 24-70mm f/4 L IS Kit, an item more liked by buyers and have a much of positive reviews. We will present to you customer reviews, product features, descriptions, and a variety of other interesting things. Happy reading.
Canon EOS 5D Mark III 22.3 MP Full Frame CMOS Digital SLR Camera with EF 24-70mm f/4 L IS Kit Details and Reviews
1273 of 1312 people found the following review helpful.
A home run for the 5D series, finally!
By J. Howell
I didn’t rush to make a review of this camera, as I wanted to really put it through it’s paces first. I won’t try to list every feature or go over every bullet point (the above description does a fine job), but instead try to go over a few things which make a big difference to me as a 5D Mark II owner. For some background, I bought an original 5D in 2007, a 5DII in 2008 and have been working with these bodies ever since then. I also have experience with all of the Canon 1-series up through the 1DIII and 1DsIII. I currently log about 60,000 photos per year with the 5D Mark IIs as a professional wedding and portrait photographer. I shoot almost exclusively with fast L prime lenses in my work.
So after a week of solid shooting with the camera, here are the areas which are of note relative to previous 5D bodies:
AF is the elephant in the room here so I’ll address it first. Good news, we now have a focusing system worth of it’s price point. The AF system here is identical to that in the 1Dx and is THE most sophisticated AF system EVER put in any Canon body. It is superior to that in the 1DV and all bodies before it.
I have tested the AF point in servo and one shot mode with my fastest lenses. Speed, accuracy, and consistency have been exceptional and better than anything I have used before. AF gets the job done with zero drama. NO focus jitter, NO frontfocus, NO backfocus, nothing but near-instant, dead accurate focusing with all of my lenses. Even with my Sigma 85/1.4 (which gives my 5DII bodies absolute fits) is 100% accurate with no jitter on the 5DIII. Center AF point and all peripheral AF points are all usable with fast primes. With the 5DII you just use the center AF point and hope for the best (with often mixed results). You could forget using the outer AF points with fast lenses on previous 5D bodies. That has all changed now.
Just to see how far I could push it, I took my most difficult to focus lens (24/1.4 II), put it on the 5DIII, and tried to focus on my black lab in my dimly lit apartment. At a distance of about 2 feet I would able to lock focus on the dog’s eye with the far left AF point at F1.4, 1/40, ISO4000. Think about that. I was able to focus on a black eye on a black dog in a dimly lit apartment at F1.4. The 5DII would have hunted all day long trying to do this, even with it’s center AF point.
I could sit here and write a book on how happy this performance makes me. For what I do, if this were the only upgrade from the 5D Mark II, it alone would be worth of the $3500 price tag. That said, there is more…
It’s hard to put my finger on exactly what changed, but the 5DIII just feels more substantial. It feels like a chopped down 1-series instead of a buffed up 10 series. The contour of the body has changed to fit your hand better. The rubber is also a new compound which is much grippier than before. The 5DIII feels much better to hold and use than the previous 5D bodies.
I wasn’t expecting a big improvement here, but the screen is drop dead gorgeous. The height is about the same, but it’s wider than that in the 5DII and fits the aspect of horizontal images perfectly now. The screen itself has better coatings which allow you to see it easier outside. The contrast, viewing angle, color, and saturation have all improved noticeably. It has a very similar look to a high end smartphone screen. This is a substantial upgrade from the 5DII’s screen.
Image quality is better than the 5DII, but not substantially so. Let me explain.
The 5DIII now natively amplifies the sensor data to ISO 25,600 whereas the 5DII only natively went to ISO 6400. This means that for anything higher than ISO 6400, the 5DIII is better. In RAW you are looking at an improvement of about 1/2 to 3/4 of a stop at high ISO. At lower ISOs, the noise level is about the same.
JPEG quality has improved much more though. The JPEG engine in this camera is staggeringly good and a solid 2 stops better at controlling noise at high ISO than the 5DII. It strikes the best balance of detail and noise control of any camera on the market right now. Note though that default NR in JPEG mode is fairly strong and that you will generally attain a better “look” from your files with the “low” NR setting.
As an aside, the nasty cross-hatch banding present in the deep shadows of 5DII files is now gone with the Mark III. There is still mild vertical banding, but it’s similar to the original 5D and only visible when pushed heavily (3 or more stops).
I don’t have any hard data on this, but I’m fully convinced the metering of the 5DIII is better than that of the 5DII. I find myself correcting with exposure compensation MUCH less now with the new body than with the mark II. Shooting with the two side the newfound metering accuracy of the mark III is very obvious. I found the 5DII metering very similar to the original 5D. The new 5DIII is much improved here.
**SPEED AND STORAGE**
Camera startup and operation is near-instant. Shutter lag and mirror blackout is now faster than before and leads to a more instant, responsive feel while shooting. This, combined with the vastly improved AF make for a radically different experience from previous 5D bodies.
Dual memory card slots mean you can now either backup your data to a 2nd slot *OR* you can “span” cards. Spanning means that once one card is full it will automatically swtich to the second card. SUCH a nice feature. I can’t tell you how many times my card has filled up at the most inopportune moments and shooting stopped. No more.
Shooting speed is either 3fps or 6fps and the buffer is about 18 frames deep in RAW only with a fast CF card. You can shoot almost indefinitely in JPEG mode without hitting the buffer. For RAW I would recommend a 60MB/s CF card to take full advantage of the CF slot speed. The SD slot is slower, but still capable of about 30MB/s write speed.
The 5D Mark II had a slight magenta color cast. This was easily correctable in post processing and wasn’t a huge deal most of the time. I now report that color cast is gone and that the 5DIII’s color is much more neutral. Skin tones in general look better due to the more neutral tone.
Additionally I have found auto white balance to be improved over previous 5D models. I’ve noticed that while post processing I’m having to correct color less with the 5DIII files than the 5DII files. This is very exciting, as it will save me a fair amount of time in post processing. Per usual, all of the cameras struggle under tungsten lighting. However, AWB is able to get color surprisingly close with anything that contains natural lighting.
I would strongly advise reading the manual because there are a lot of new settings and options which won’t be familar to 5DII users. There are also a LOT of different ways to set up your AF system, so a little experimentation is needed. In general, the menu system is more complicated that before, but this also allows a much greater degree of customization of the camera. In that regard, the 5DIII is much closer to a 1-series than before. Take the time to learn it and set it up correctly.
You now have the option to one-click zoom to 100% at your AF point. This means you can instantly check focusing with one button push. This saves a lot of time and frustration while shooting. There is also a “silent” shutter mode which only makes about 1/2 the noise as the standard shutter. You can do one-shot or 3FPS in silent shutter mode. 6FPS continuous is only available with the standard shutter mode.
Another brand new feature that’s exciting is the ability to re-map buttons on the camera to perform other functions. The options are very extensive. One in particular I’m excited about is the ability to toggle one-shot with AI-Servo by clicking the DOF preview button (which is now on the right hand side of the camera, in perfect reach of your middle or ring finger). If you are shooting a still subject in one-shot and they start to move, simply push the DOF preview button and you’re instantly in AI Servo mode. There is no need to move your hand, or even look away from the viewfinder. When you are done, simply release the button and you’re back in one-shot mode.
Canon finally woke up with the 5D Mark III. The completeness of this refresh is hard to overstate, as there is no part of this camera that was left untouched from the Mark II. The overall experience of using the camera has been transformed to an entirely different level. You will be faster, better, and more efficient with a 5D Mark III relative to its predecessors.
The improvements here will most cater to those who shoot in demanding environments which require high ISO and fast, accurate autofocus. Canon basically fixed most every complaint anyone ever had with the 5DII while maintaining the things which made the 5DII great (resolution, image quality, small body).
The price of this body is probably about $500 too high compared to its primary competition – the $3000 Nikon D800, which is likely to annoy some people. Though individually they cater to different types of photographers and have different strengths over the other, overall these two cameras are comparable products. If you are starting from scratch or have minimal gear investment, the D800 is worth a hard look at. If you are heavily invested in one system or another, you would probably do best just to stick with your current brand. Both are fine cameras and you can’t go wrong with either one.
636 of 690 people found the following review helpful.
Should you upgrade? Photo and video shooters, read and decide!
By David Siegfried
I was able to pre-order and the Canon 5D Mark III arrived on March 29th. I had mixed feelings when the press release first came out with the specs on the new Mark III. Several features that were high on my wish list didn’t make it into the camera, but when I started seeing some of the image samples, particularly in low light, I knew I wanted it anyway.
I’m currently an owner of the 5D Mk II and the 60D and my expectations were that the Mk III would inherit many of the superior handling features of the newer 60D. I am an enthusiast and not a professional photographer but I do make my living shooting product photography for online sales. For pleasure I shoot nature, architecture, and the occasional portraits. I’m also an avid fan of DSLR video and the fact that these cameras can literally capture Hollywood quality footage with few modifications is a big deal to me and a lot of people in the independent cinematography community.
The much anticipated release of the 5D Mark III was a bit of a letdown to me initially. One of the things I LOVE about the 60D is the articulating screen. The articulating screen is so handy to have and a joy to use in situations where the camera needs to be at an odd angle, such as low to the ground, high above your head or in tight quarters. The other indispensable use for the articulating screen is shooting self-portraits and videos of yourself. As a one-man act, you can’t shoot a video and also be in it at the same time if you can’t see the screen! So I really couldn’t believe it when Canon came out with the specs on the Mark III — and NO articulating screen!? It’s a feature that has been in the lower-grade 60D and T3i for over a year and a half already, and here we’re paying three times the price of the 60D we don’t get it? COME ON, Canon!
Canon’s reason for not including an articulating screen to preserve weatherproofing. To remedy this I’m getting the Swivi 5.6″ HDMI LCD Screen which is a giant 5″ articulating LCD screen that even has FOCUS PEAKING (really cool). I guess I’m making lemonade out of the lemons in this situation. Another feature that didn’t make it into this camera that has all the cinematographers grumbling is there is no clean HDMI output which would allow the uncompressed video footage to be captured on an external recorder. This feature would have made this a true high-end movie making machine to rival the $30,000 RED ONE and knock the socks off the Panasonic GH2 and even the AF100. For myself, not a deal breaker… but the Nikon D800 has this. [UPDATE: The latest Canon Firmware Update 1.2.3 has enabled clean HDMI output, but it’s a disappointment. The uncompressed footage is still hampered by an internal processing system that delivers soft footage.]
Probably the most vexing thing that did not make it onto my wish list is the elimination of the rolling shutter problem. It has been reduced a little, but it has by no means been eliminated, so the jello effect remains an issue and impossible to completely remove in post. And so far, there has been NO program that has been able to eliminate it entirely without creating additional artifacts (believe me, I’ve wasted untold hours trying them all). Rolling shutter has only been reduced by 20% or so and I won’t be fully satisfied shooting video until we get the global shutter and eliminate this unprofessional looking artifact altogether.
Continuous autofocus during video? It’s not even an option. The Panasonic GH1/GH2 have it, and do it well. And now the Nikon D800 can auto focus continuously during video recording too, and includes face detection to keep subjects in focus. The only option for autofocus with this camera whole shooting video is still the old way: press the AF-ON button, and you’ll set a clunky, noisy, re-focus point. So don’t think about replacing your camcorder yet. Shooting video with this camera remains a manual focus affair best handled with a rig and follow-focus setup… classically handled as a two-man operation.
Those are my three primary disappointments. Now the fun part: all the great things (and more) that DID make it into my wish list:
1. Live View focusing with half depress of shutter button. The Mk II had a really awkward way of focusing while in Live View mode. You had to depress the separate AF button on the BACK of the camera, then hold absolutely still while you moved your finger back to the shutter button, and then take the shot. The Mk III acts just like the 60D in that you half press the shutter to focus, just as it SHOULD, which is to say exactly like shooting with a viewfinder. And you no longer have to go into the menu and set Live View to Stills-Only in order to get Exposure Simulation: The Mark III has a handy dedicated movie/stills mode switch.
2. Better low-light performance. Nikon has been beating out Canon in high ISO performance since the D3, then the D3s, the D3x, and the D700. It’s taken two product cycles for Canon to finally catch up. The Mk II was the low-light king when it came out, and still performs exceptionally well, but the Mk III takes it to a new level. My initial test shots show that ISO 12800 on the Mk III has about the same noise levels as ISO 6400 on the Mk II, but with better sharpness and improved color rendition. ISO 12800 is actually usable for high-quality work, whereas at ISO 25600 things start to fall apart–but still plenty good enough for smaller web images. These ISO settings will allow you to actually get the shot even at night in situations that were previously unthinkable. Most importantly, overall image quality in terms of dynamic range and the quality of the noise at high ISOs has been improved for both stills and video.
The claims were that ISO 25600 on this camera was going to be like ISO 6400 on the Mark II, a two stop improvement. The truth is that it’s not. It’s just about a one stop improvement, maybe slightly more, but that’s still a significant achievement.
3. No megapixel escalation! I was relieved that Canon DIDN’T try to stuff 36 megapixels into the Mk III. They kept it roughly the same at 22mp. Way to go, Canon! It’s been proven time and time again that more megapixels doesn’t make for a sharper image, only larger file sizes. “More megapixels equals better image quality is what’s known as “the megapixel myth” Cramming in more megapixels means a lower signal-to-noise ratio and less full well capacity for each photo site. At some point you don’t get more detail with a higher pixel count; you just spread the detail around on more pixels. I hardly ever need 21mp as it is, and I am absolutely relieved not to be dealing with larger files because I often shoot RAW.
4. Exposure bracketing. The Mk II could only do 3 exposure bracket shots automatically; the Mk III can do up to 7. Bingo! But you have to go to page 316 in the manual under Custom Settings to read how. It’s not even in the index and the main entry under Exposure Bracketing says it does 3 (the default) and doesn’t even mention that it can do up to 7. There is also White Balance Bracketing (redundant if you shoot RAW), but unfortunately no focus bracketing (focus stacking). That would have thrilled me. (Focus bracketing/stacking function is available via the Unified Magic Lantern Firmware for the 550D/60D/600D/50D/500D.)
5. Chromatic aberration correction. A feature inherent to Nikon and Panasonic micro 4/3, it’s about time Canon got it. But it’s unclear whether RAW images processed with PhotoShop Adobe RAW already have this applied or not… and you have to load in lens profiles manually. I will have to experiment with this.
6. Improved White Balance settings. One of the major gripes I have with all cameras is the accuracy of the Auto White Balance. Sure AWB works fine outdoors in natural light, but in indoor light it’s usually awful. Even the tungsten setting is rarely accurate. Invariably I’ve had to create custom white balance settings on all my cameras using a white card. But FINALLY, on the Mk III, not only is the tungsten setting accurate, even the Auto setting gives decent results indoors.
7. Electronic Level. The 60D has it on the LCD. The 5D Mk III now has it. But get this–the Mk III not only has a side-to-side level, it has a FRONT TO BACK level too! Great for architectural photography. And there’s more–a grid overlay and electronic level in the VIEWFINDER. (Once again you must go into Custom settings to set a shortcut button to enable this.) This is way more than I was hoping for and Canon gets bonus points for this.
8. Quiet shutter. The shutter noise from “mirror slap” has been greatly reduced even in Standard mode, and there’s a new “silent shooting mode” where you don’t hear the mirror at all. This is something I’ve always wanted in an SLR, and was pleasantly surprised. I guess Canon WAS listening after all.
9. Auto ISO in manual mode. This is so cool. You can set the camera to M, set the exact shutter speed and f/stop that you want, and let Auto ISO choose the ISO for the correct exposure. Considering that this camera gives good results up to ISO 12800, this is a really great way to achieve the exact depth of field and stop motion effect that you want, and let the camera pick the right ISO. Couldn’t do this in Mk II. Works with stills and video.
9. Full video exposure control. Speaking of videos, the ability to control exposure when shooting videos has been greatly improved. The Mk II was the camera that started the whole DSLR movie craze. I’m sure that Canon never imagined when they stuck this feature onto the Mk II as an add-on, that it would explode into the DSLR cinematography revolution that it has. But the Mk II was severely hampered by crude exposure control. Now, full manual control is available. Strangely though, only auto ISO is available in Av, Tv, and P. There are more shooting modes: 1080p at 24, 25, or 30 FPS and 720p mode now does 50 or 60 FPS, with two compression options,including an I-frame only compression for better quality suitable for grading.
A whole wave of enthusiasts use the Magic Lantern firmware patch that allows cinematographers to gain access to enhanced functionality like manual audio, zebras, focus assist tools, and more. The Mk III now handles a few of these functions naively such as manual audio (and a headphone jack), plus a video ISO range that goes to 12,800 with 25,600 as an option.
UPDATE 6-2013: A MAJOR BREAKTHROUGH IN THE MAGIC LANTERN FIRMWARE: Amazingly, Magic Lantern has released a version that enables recording of 14-Bit RAW 1080p directly to a CF card. This is a total game changer and a huge buzz in the DSLR video community right now. (!!) the RAW footage blows away the internal H.264 codec in terms of both resolution and dynamic range. Once again a Canon camera called 5D is shaking up the independent cinematography industry big time! Stay tuned.
10. The 4GB video file size limitation. Finally, Canon has crossed the 4gb file size barrier and supports file spanning. Now clips can go as long as 30 minutes instead of 12. A big improvement, but come on… The Panasonic GH1 & GH2 have been able to shoot video with NO time limitation for years. Continuous shooting is a MUST HAVE for event videographers. Sorry, this wish-list item still doesn’t make the full cut. Why do camera manufacturers hamstring this when it’s obvious these cameras are capable of unlimited video recording? Thirty minute cutoff due to a European tax law… can someone fix this PLEASE?
There is much more… of course the completely overhauled complex AF system, primarily for action shooters, dual CF and SD card support, and in-camera HDR and other image combining effects…
Biggest annoyance: the AF point selection button no longer controls magnification in Live View and playback mode. This is a big pain when you want to use focus assist in Live View, because you can no longer just use your right thumb… you have to take your left hand from the lens to press the magnify button which is now on the left side of the LCD. I hate when they move a button from the perfect spot to one that is NOT ERGONOMIC. Workaround: You can assign Magnify to the `Set’ button which is on the right (but not to the old button which would have been better).
So here’s the big question: at list price of thirty-five hundred dollars, should you upgrade? My thoughts:
A. If you are primarily a through-the-viewfinder still photographer shooting in good light (outdoors and flash), it’s rather hard to justify the extra cost. Many of us have barely scratched the surface of the creative possibilities of the Mk II, and in many ways this is not a major upgrade for traditional style, properly lit photography. This camera isn’t going to make you a better photographer, though some of the new tools like the electronic level are quite handy.
B. Cinematographers: There’s already a lot of carping and moaning in the video camps that this upgrade is a big disappointment. I think it’s great for part-time video shooters like me, but it’s missing a lot of features that the pros were hoping for. Of course if they want all those pro features they can buy the Canon C300 for $16,000. But current users locked into Magic Lantern are probably going to have to wait for Magic Lantern to catch up anyway. They’ve already got Magic Lantern for the T2i, T3i, 50D and 60D, so it’s just a matter of time. [UPDATE: THE MAGIC LANTERN HACK IS AVAILABLE WITH EVEN MORE OPTIONS INCLUDING SHOOTING RAW VIDEO.]
C. Low light / night photographers, action sports, theater and concert shooters, documentary videographers: This upgrade is a MUST! This camera sets a new benchmark for image quality in less than optimal light conditions. That one stop advantage, better color depth and dynamic range in existing light is important to these guys and gals. The image quality improvement in low light is very noticeable.
C. The rest of us. Many pros are going to want this model, if not now, eventually. The state-of-the art feature set is quite impressive; the handling improvement is modest. For hobbyists, the steep price may be difficult to justify. The Mk II is still a fantastic tool and unless you really need ISO 12800 this isn’t going to give you significantly better images than you can already achieve with the marvelous Mk II.
My verdict: An enthusiastic Five Stars as a still photography camera; Four Stars overall due to the lack of three important features that have been available from Panasonic for several years already: articulating screen, continuous autofocus during video, and unlimited video recording time.
If you’re on the fence about upgrading or even a first time buyer, I hope my review has been useful. Happy Shooting!
304 of 332 people found the following review helpful.
By Coronet Blue
Some quick observations on the 5D3. Before I go further I should explain I’ll be comparing vs. the 5D2 and second, if you need to know about video, I can’t be of any help there.
Received camera body from Amazon on 3/23. Lots of new features (5D2 manual is 259 pages; 5D3 manual is 403 pages). For the work I do, I was looking for two improvements over the 5D2: Ability to bracket more than 3 shots and much lower noise. The first wish was granted. As you probably know, the 5D3 does 7 exposures. Nikons do 9, but 7 is almost always enough. Those who need more will probably have a Promote remote anyway. Noise? Well, the 5D3 images are cleaner but I wouldn’t say dramatically so. With the default noise settings and long exp NR set on, I’d say it’s 1 to 1.5 stops better than the 5D2. Now, with a little Noiseware or other NR, you can get very clean images at 12800 with very little loss of detail so I don’t consider this a problem. I guess it was unrealistic to expect the 5D3 to match the very low noise of my D700 but it would have been nice.
It’s true that nearly every feature on the 5D3 is an upgrade over the 5D2. Not all of these will result in better images but it’s fair to say that the entire “feel” of the 5D3, the layout, viewfinder, displays are all nicer than the 5D2. The two things that may be game changers, IMO, are the shutter and the AF. If you haven’t heard and felt the shutter on the 5D3, you’re in for a treat. It isn’t just quieter; there is much less kick from the mirror. Add the “silent” mode and, wow. I would not be surprised to see signs in the future that say “Please set your camera to silent mode”. As for AF, I never had a problem with the AF on the 5D2 so I’m less impressed here. But if you shoot moving subjects, the 5D3 has it all–predictive, wrap around, sequential, selective. The manual devotes 45 pages to setting autofocus.
A small thing that I’ve been waiting for, a dual axis electronic level is wonderful. For some time, digital SLRs have had an “artificial horizon” that tells you if you are tilting the camera to the left or right. That’s nice but in almost all imaging software, rotating an image takes just a second. What these left/right levelers don’t tell you is if you are tipping the camera up or down which can be a real pain with a super wide lens. Well, problem solved with the 5D3.
The in-camera HDR is a mixed bag. Output is jpeg only and even at that, it takes awhile for the 5D3 to register the images. (This could be my cards which are Lexar UDMA 400x & Sandisk Extreme IV). Anyhow, it’s a fun feature. This brings me to yet another interesting feature. Since the 5D3 has two cards (CF + SD) you can record different file types to each card. In other words, you could have a RAW-only card and a JPEG-only card. I haven’t tried this but I presume this would mean that you could shoot everything RAW except in-camera HDRs which, being jpegs, would end up on the other card. I get requests for jpegs so now I can put them on one card while keeping an all-RAW card for myself. You can also have redundant cards for backup, sequential for extra capacity, etc. As with the autofocus options, the possibilities are endless!
So, to summarize. Pros: Better AF, 100% viewfinder with electronic grid (no more screens), better LCD, faster drive and processor, fabulous shutter/mirror, 7-stop bracketing, 2-axis level, somewhat lower noise and thus somewhat cleaner images vs. 5D2, two card slots, uses same batteries as 5D2. Cons: Still no built-in flash (yes, it’s very handy), in-camera HDR so-so, mode knob still feels flimsy (and it locks now, so be careful). All in all, this is a very nice, refined camera and anybody trading up from a 5D2 will be happy. And if you do get a 5D3, the person getting your 5D2 will be happy as well.
Just a footnote. One thing that comes through loud and clear from these reviews is how very different people’s needs are and how differently they use a camera. I can only explain how a product meets or fails to meet my needs. I would not dream of saying you do/don’t need this feature or “read and decide” as if I was some sort of oracle. You know what is or is not important to you and how much you’re willing to pay for it. The web has made everybody a professional and an expert but when it’s your money, the only expert is you.
Features of this product
- 22MP full frame CMOS sensor
- 6 frames per second continuous shooting
- 61-point AF system
- ISO 100 – 25600 range with 50 – 102,800 expansion
- 1080p HD video recording with manual controls
- 3.2 inch LCD with 1,040,000 dots
- 100% viewfinder coverage
- Dual CF and SD card slots
- DIGIC 5+ processor
DSLRs are usually larger than Prosumer cameras. However, DSLRs are often equipped with a convenient hand grip which makes it possible and easier for you to hold your camera when utilizing a heavy lens. DSLRs are equipped with bigger sensor hence helping you to get larger objects. The sensor also uses a low-noise sensor technology so the images produced are better. Due to the large sensor size, the price is generally expensive.
All of that we have shared above is all you need to know about this product. At this point, you can decide whether it is a right product which you really need or not. Still, the decision remains on your hand since we only can provide you to information and recommendation for the best choice. For the important thing for you, price would not be an issue especially if the product is basically suitable for your require. We also have additional articles or reviews concerning to similar products which can be suitable for you to make a comparison. You can explore and ensure what your right option is. We hope which is to be fruitful for you. Have a wonderful day all and a bunch of thanks for stopping through and reading our post.