Sony DSC-TX7 10.2MP CMOS Digital Camera with 4x Zoom with Optical Steady Shot Image Stabilization and 3.5 inch Touch Screen LCD (Blue) facts, exciting information along with costumer testimonials who previously bought plus best price with really great discount.
Our company is always told that we need more mega pixels in our cameras, these is a great way to get you to buy the latest camera. Manufactures will encourage you that your 3 mega pixel camera is not good enough even so the fact is an average digital photographer may only desire a minimal of 3 mega pixels to be able to print their 4×6 photographs at home. If you want to print larger photographs, then you will need more mega pixels but how often will you want larger prints. Although by adding a little more cash to get a higher resolution camera, such as which have up to 10 mega pixels, one can save cost as most do not need that much.
This item produced by Sony become one of the top recomended Point and Shot Camera since a lot of customers happy after using this item. In addition to its features, the best price also becomes a factor. This article is a review about Sony DSC-TX7 10.2MP CMOS Digital Camera with 4x Zoom with Optical Steady Shot Image Stabilization and 3.5 inch Touch Screen LCD (Blue), an item more liked by costumers and have plenty of cool reviews. We will present to you customer reviews, product features, descriptions, and a variety of other interesting things. Happy reading.
Sony DSC-TX7 10.2MP CMOS Digital Camera with 4x Zoom with Optical Steady Shot Image Stabilization and 3.5 inch Touch Screen LCD (Blue) Details and Reviews
132 of 139 people found the following review helpful.
Good Party Camera, Full HD video
I’ve got my Sony DSC-TX7 from Amazon just a few days ago. First impression – it’s very small and thin. Feels very solid and a dark blue color looks pretty good. A wrist strap has been already attached at the factory; otherwise it can easily slip out of your hands. It is pretty good for a party – you can put it into your pocket and do whatever you want, even dance, and this camera will not bother you with its presence.
– Very attractive stylish and solid design, especially in dark-blue color
– Ultra-slim body fits any small pocket
– Dust-free optics since the lens is not retractable
– Big high-resolution 920K colorful display looks like a small TV
– Pretty short startup time, no shutter lag, up to 10 frames per sec in burst mode
– Accepts SD/SDHC memory cards as well as Sony’s proprietary memory-stick cards
– Wide 25mm (equiv.) lens – good for indoors and parties
– High-precision auto focus and effective image stabilization
– Sophisticated noise reduction algorithm greatly improves high-ISO pictures quality
– Advanced Hand-held Twilight mode for low-light pictures
– Special Backlight Correction HDR mode for high-contrast scenes
– Wide auto-stitch panorama mode
– High-quality front-side stereo microphones
– Smooth and silent zoom, auto focus, and optical image stabilization
– Very nice Full High-Definition 1080 60i video
– Unusually good video quality and high sensitivity in VGA mode
– Intuitive well-thought-out menu with the easy to use touch-screen
– New “Exmor R” sensor seems much faster but more noisy than CCD ones
– Aggressive noise reduction is prone to obliterate small picture details
– Relatively short battery life and slow charger
BUILD: The build quality is very good and I generally like its construction. The only issue is the shifting of the lens cover to turn camera on and off – that mechanism is pretty tight but the lens cover does not have any kind of prominence you could grasp to move that resisting shield up and down.
STARTUP: The startup time is pretty short – about 1 sec. The time of recording of a single picture into the memory card might vary from 1 to 2 sec without flash and about 2 sec with flash. In the burst mode you can take 10 shots for just 1 sec but then you should wait for about 10 sec while they’re being writing to the memory. The menu provides a friendly interface to manage those groups of shots.
DISPLAY: TX7 has a big 3.5″ bright high-resolution display with 920K pixels and a wide angle of view which is easily visible even in a direct sunlight. With its vivid colors and clarity it looks like a small TV with a 16:9 wide-screen.
MENU: Most of the camera’s functionality is accessible via that touch-screen display. TX7 has a very intuitive menu which is visually divided into 3 parts – narrow left and right vertical bars and a big central area. On the top of the right bar you can see the remaining battery charge indicator, available number of pictures, current shooting format and resolution. In the lower part there are the two buttons: Shooting Mode and Playback. If you touch the mode button a list of the available modes will appear in the central part: Intelligent Auto, Program Auto, iSweep Panorama, Movie, Anti Motion Blur, Hand-held Twilight, Backlight Correction HDR, and Scenes.
The left navigation bar has a “Menu” button on the top with 4 predefined icons below. It you touch that “Menu” button the central area will display icons of the parameters which in conjunction with the left-bar ones represent all the available shooting attributes for the currently selected shooting mode.
The most interesting is that if you touch the gearwheel icon on the top, then you can drag with your finger any of 4 icons from the left bar toward the center of the central screen area and drop it there. And then you can touch any other available icon from the central area and the similar way move it to the empty slot on the left bar. By doing this you can customize that quick-access menu separately for each shooting mode the way you need (make sure you touch firmly and drag slowly). And the same way you can choose those quick-access icons for the playback mode as well.
ADVANCED FEATURES: TX7 has a number of advanced modes which could be helpful in the difficult light conditions.
THH: “Twilight Hand-Held” mode can help either to improve a low-light picture quality when the using of flash is prohibited, or to get a picture in so challenging light conditions where otherwise you could not get one at all. In that mode the camera automatically sets the lowest possible ISO and shutter speed, takes 6 consecutive shots within about 1 sec and then combines them into one picture with much less noise. It can be very useful for shooting landscapes in the dusk, the indoors interiors, or museum pieces. If you’re going to take pictures of people in that mode then it might be better to tell them “freeze!” instead of “cheers!” 🙂
AMB: “Anti Motion Blur” is another low-light mode which also takes a number of consecutive shots and then composes their superposition. Unlike the THH-mode this one sets high ISO and fast shutter speed to catch the subjects which might be slightly moving like pets or kids. For example, if for the certain indoors conditions in THH mode a camera can set ISO-200 and the shutter speed 1/30, then in AMB it might set ISO-3200 and 1/200. BTW in a number of cases I noticed the pictures in THH mode were a kind of underexposed and oversaturated with some red or blue tint, so I had to apply some exposure compensation when shooting – about +1.0 – +1.3 and also to do some post-work to adjust the white-balance. Actually both modes use a noise reduction mechanism based on the data averaging. The cornerstone of that mechanism is the fact that the useful data is constant – does not change from one consecutive shot to another, while the noise is fluctuating. So that algorithm when doing the pictures superposition amplifies the constant aspects and reduces the random ones.
The processing task in THH-mode is relatively simple: the algorithm should recognize the displacement of each consecutive shot caused by unstable hands and then compensate it while doing the pictures superposition. However in AMB-mode in addition to that shaking hands instability the camera should also identify the subjects which are moving by themselves (like kids or pets). For the static areas the AMB-algorithm can apply as the same averaging noise reduction as in THH-mode, but for the moving subjects the AMB-algorithm should try to identify their trajectory and overlay them separately to reduce their noise. If the AMB-algorithm can not dynamically align them then it takes an image of that moving subject from one of the consecutive shots and just presents it without any noise reduction (the worst-case-scenario). That might happen if the subject is moving too much or if its shape is changing, for example – a jumping dog. I did some testing and found – the less subject moves the better AMB-algorithm can perform its job and so the less noise is visible on the final picture.
HDR: “Backlight Correction HDR” – One more useful mode. It is not only about backlight conditions but it also might be very helpful in any case when your picture consists of the fragments with very different brightness. Camera does the two shots in a quick succession, each of which is optimized for the lightest and the darkest areas and then combines both of them into one shot. That mode is only effective when there is a huge difference in the areas’ luminance. The good news is that even in the earlier models (like my old DSC-T100) and even for the regular shots Sony has been doing a pretty good job of extending the dynamic range. I did not know that until about two years ago I purchased an advanced Kodak’s P&S camera and found that on the same subjects where the Kodak’s camera completely washed out some most illuminated areas, the Sony’s T100 happened to handle them pretty well! The same is true for TX7 as well.
PANORAMA: Another interesting feature is the iSweep Panorama mode. You can shoot either a horizontal or vertical panorama, and there are the two modes: standard and wide. A standard horizontal panorama can cover up to 180 degrees (or less), while with the wide one you could shoot almost the entire circle. Just remember: you should take your horizontal panorama within 10 sec. A standard vertical panorama covers about 130 degrees and the wide one – about 180 degrees, and you should complete it within about 8 sec. Be aware that zoom does not work in that mode and the recording is done at the most wide angle (25 mm equivalent focal length). The resulting horizontal panorama is not of a high quality – it has just 1080 pixels of the vertical resolution. If your subject does not fit the frame or if you want the better resolution you can do this trick: 1) switch to the vertical up-to-down panorama, 2) choose the wide one, 3) turn you camera 90 degree counter-clockwise and shoot your panorama from left-to-right within 8 sec. In this case you will have 1920 pixels vertically. One more hint: Before starting panorama point your camera to any object which is at the average distance and half press the shutter button to catch the right focus. Then holding the button half pressed, turn to the most left position, press the button all the way down and start shooting. It is important because if in your starting direction there is any object which is much closer than most of the objects in you panorama then you would catch a wrong focus and most of the panorama would be out-of-focus.
LENS: The TX7 model, unlike many other recent Sony P&S cameras, was lucky enough to get a genuine Carl Zeiss zoom lens. Its mechanics is just great – it performs zooming, auto-focusing, and the optical image stabilization in absolute silence. However if you start zooming while shooting video and then quickly release that tiny zoom lever you will get a kind of “clatz-z” short noise on the recording footage. If you try to release that lever very smoothly you will get gentler “click-h” replica.
The optical image stabilization of the Carl Zeiss lens in conjunction with the digital one provided by Sony works pretty well and allows to shoot pictures at a very low shutter speed around 1/8 – 1/10 sec so you can use lesser ISO and therefore get better picture quality in the low light condition. Auto focus works well in both daylight and low light situations, especially if in your settings the AF Illuminator is ON.
Just be aware the auto focus and image stabilization works all the time your camera is on. It might be convenient from one prospective, but on the other hand is sucks the battery much faster. On my Panasonic ZR1 and ZS3 I can choose a mode when the auto focus is activated only when the shutter button is half pressed and the image stabilization is turned on when you’re actually making a shot. It would be nice if Sony provided the similar functionality which would greatly prolong the battery life. Meanwhile open the lens cover only when you’re really going to make a shot and close it right after that.
ZOOM: The lens has a very convenient for the party (and any indoors) shooting zoom range starting with just 25 mm (of the 35-mm equivalent). It allows to make good framing in pretty small compartments. The quality of the pictures taken at 25 mm are pretty good, however if you apply the full zoom – up to 100 mm (35-mm equivalent) you might experience some quality decrease. Generally when you zoom-in you expect to see the bigger size of the shooting object and to get more visible details. Most of the times when I took a picture of a certain subject first at wide 25 mm focal length and then stretched to the full 100 mm it did not show much more details. The image was bigger, as expected, but more fuzzy with less contrast and saturation. When I was physically walking 4 times closer to the subject and making a shot with the initial 25 mm (equivalent) – the picture was sharp with good contrast and saturation. So if you want to get nice sharp shots – take pictures without much zooming.
From my prospective the biggest Sony’s achievement and at the same time a source of the picture quality problems in TX7 is the noise reduction mechanism implemented by Sony in this camera.
SENSOR: Actually the root cause is the “Exmor R” sensor: regardless of all that hype around its low-light performance my own experience with the two Sony cameras – WX1 before and TX7 now shows that sensor is actually at least as the same or even more noisy than its CCD predecessors. May be in theory it should have some advantage, but in the real implementation they either could not make it working properly or may be some other unpredictable problems of that design came to the scene and not only eliminated the anticipated positive effect but also spoiled the entire performance.
On many pictures taken with my old Sony DSC-T100 at its lowest ISO-100 I could not admit any noticeable noise. On some pictures taken by TX7 at its lowest ISO-125 some areas, which I guess the processing algorithm did not recognize, show pretty much noise. But that is a relatively rare case because most of the pictures are entirely processed by the Sony’s noise reduction mechanism. IMHO the problem is – they’re over-processed and even those which were taken at the low ISO.
NOISE REDUCTION: That algorithm generally works very well for the evenly-painted surfaces. One of my indoor pictures (without flash) displays a man surrounded with the light-painted walls and also a part of the glossy-black door is visible as well. The picture was taken at the relatively high ISO-320, but that black door shines without a single pixel of noise and the bright walls look very good also. The man’s clothes look also clean without any noise and the only problem is his face – it looks like having a thick layer of make-up on it. The picture was taken from the distance just about 3 feet but you can not see the man’s eyelashes, and even his eyebrows have become partly obliterated by the aggressive noise reduction.
It seems that noise reduction algorithm recognizes the 3 types of picture areas: relatively even panes, sharp edges or transitions, and the parts with a complex structure which can not be divided into the first two categories. It strongly removes the noise from those flat panes pretending they do not have any significant details which are worth to keep, it probably makes some sharpening to the edges, and I guess does nothing to the complex structures because it does not know what would be better to do with them. That assumption comes from the observation of some portrait-like photos taken in iAuto mode with the flash, where a mid-aged person has a plastic-even face with a few scars. The thing is that algorithm put heavy make-up everywhere on the man’s face and therefore hid the sensor noise altogether with the most man’s wrinkles, but it “recognized” a couple of most visible wrinkles as “edges” and therefore not only showed them but even made more sharp and contrast what made them looking like scars. The pictures taken with Panasonic ZS3 looked much more natural and showed the real skin texture as well as all the small and big wrinkles the way they were.
It seems that noise reduction algorithm is mostly effective for the indoors and in particular for party shooting because most of the interior objects are of either big or medium size with relatively even panes and sharp edges. And the most interesting on such shots is catching of what people were doing instead of their portraits.
Sometimes I go to the park and take some shots there. On the pictures taken in the late autumn with my old Sony T100 I can recognize every branch on the numerous trees across a small pond. Of course they’re not sharp, but at least I can see the distinct trees with distinct branches. On the similar pictures taken by TX7 many areas with those distant trees look like the picture was rubbed out and the average color was spread across those areas, however some odd tree branches can strike out of those indistinct areas. It seems that happens only on the low-contrast areas, however if there is a bright sky behind the numerous branches of trees in your shot then the picture looks sharp and clear. And by the way, if you are taking pictures of somebody against such a background then your attention will be mostly attracted to that person(s) and you will hardly admit some minor imperfections in the back.
MOVIE MODE: The most interesting and I believe the best feature in this tiny package is the full-frame High Definition 1080 60i AVCHD movie mode. Shortly – it’s really good! Actually there are the 3 available movie modes: 1080 AVCHD, 720 MP4, and VGA 640×480 MP4.
In all the P&S cameras I have now and had before the VGA mode was nothing to write home about. In WX1 it was a complete trash and even in Olympus E-P2 it was not much better. In the EP2’s review I wrote its HD video clips in low-light look like a Wide-VGA, not HD. But with TX7 it’s quite opposite: I’ve never seen so good VGA mode before! It actually looks more like a low-level 4:3 HD than a regular VGA. It’s pretty clear and sharp, not much noise even in low-light environment. I guess it better fits for indoor shooting because it seems the noise reduction mechanism wipes out the small details. And one more thing – it’s got a mono-sound.
The intermediate 720 MP4 mode seems good in case if you are not able to view the AVCHD files. Its quality is slightly lower than the 1080’s one so I wouldn’t recommend it if your computer allows handling the full HD clips.
And the full 1080 60i (interlaced) mode with AVCHD codec is just great. Note: sometimes you can see “60i” and the other times – “50i”. The latter one is for PAL standard in Europe, while the “60i” one is for NTSC in the US. The quality is very good: really high resolution, sharp and clear. Both the auto focus and image stabilization work pretty well and no audible sound give them away. The Carl Zeiss lens zoom works absolutely silently so no disturbing sounds being recorded onto the footage.
SOUND: What I like very much about TX7 as a high-quality camcorder – it has stereo microphones which point to the subject in front of the camera, which means they mostly catch the person’s voice instead of collecting the noise from surroundings. On many other P&S cameras the microphones are pointed to the ceiling. The microphones have a wide frequency range, which is good enough even for the music recording. They have a pretty good sensitivity and a remarkably low noise.
ADVISE: If you’re shooting a movie clip of a person in front of the camera, make sure there is no any visible subject behind that person which is brighter or has much more contrast. In the movie mode you can not set the focus to the center or any other point you choose – the camera selects the focusing area on its own, and if there is something more bright or contrast behind the person you’re taking picture of, then camera might focus on that subject behind and the person might be out of focus.
UPDATE: A series of photos taken indoors at low light with flash on the other day showed very different result than described above. Instead of “thick layer of make-up” it was quite opposite – all the small details on the face of a woman (in her mid-forties) as well as her eyes looked very sharp and contrast. I had to reduce both sharpness and contrast in Photoshop to make it more natural, but finally it looked much better than the above mentioned one with the man’s face under a heavy “make-up”. The major difference was ISO: in the first case the camera in “iAuto” mode set automatically ISO=320 (on some other similar photos even 400) while this time I set manually in “P”rogram mode the minimum ISO=125 and used flash. The pictures were slightly darker, but the skin texture was not missed and the overall result after some post-processing looked much better. So the rule number one of having nice pictures with TX7 is to keep ISO at its minimum whenever it’s possible.
In my Panasonic cameras (ZS3 & ZR1) the light sensitivity in both HD and VGA-video mode is about the same, but it turned out in TX7 in the VGA mode it’s approximately twice higher than in HD and roughly 3 times more than the video-sensitivity of the Panasonic cameras. It’s definitely a big plus for the low-light shooting. If you’re shooting a full-HD video (1080) in AVCHD mode and it gets underexposed and noisy because of lack of light then try to switch to VGA mode – you might loose some details but the clip might look remarkably better because of much less visible noise.
I also did some testing for how long time you can shoot high-quality HD video with the fully charged battery. The TX7’s battery indicator has 4 segments. When the battery is full all four segments are turned on. I was recording a sequence of 5-min video clips with 1 min breaks in between them and noticed when the battery segments turned off:
– 1st segments turned off after about 12 min of recording
– 2nd – after about 22 min
– 3rd – after about 32 min
– 4th – after about 41 min and the battery indicator became crossed and started blinking.
After that I could record for about 1.5 min more until the camera closed the file and the entire display became black with a big crossed blinking battery icon in the middle. So it seems with a fully charged battery you can record your clips for about 40 minutes. It’s not that bad since my former Sony HDR-SR7 camcorder provided about 80-90 min of HD recording. The size of each 5-min clip is about 630MB what comes to 2.1MB per second and taking into account that 1 byte has 8 bits that will be close to 17 MBit/sec as stated in the manual for this mode.
So this Sony DSC-TX7 camera seems mostly suitable for shooting the indoor still pictures and is very good as a HD video camcorder.
73 of 76 people found the following review helpful.
Best Compact Camera Made by Sony
By Yash Desai
Let me start this review with saying that I have owned quite a few digital cameras in the past. Sony (W50, W250), Canon (SD750, SD760IS) and Nikon (S5 or something) are amongst the brands I have tried. All of them were compact point-shoot cameras.
My ideal digital camera is one where the following conditions are met:
1. I don’t have to think of the environment I am in (day or night)
2. It MUST be compact so I can carry it around easily, fit it in my pocket, etc.
3. It should just work without changing settings all the time.
This is exactly that!
-> Best low-light pictures (finally!!!)
-> Amazing Panaromic mode. It is sooo easy to use.
-> So many modes, but auto is the best mode.
-> Tap to focus certain areas of the screen! Very cool.
-> The most compact camera I have seen that has a solid build to it. Nothing cheap about it (including the price!)
-> Ability to zoom while recording HD movies! A huge plus.
-> 29 minutes of continuous video recording. (most cameras only allow 10)
-> The touch screen has an ‘easy mode’ (aka idiot mode), which hides away all the advanced features and makes it very easy to use
-> My SDHC card works (min 8gb recommended)
-> Made in Japan (no offense, but to me this says alot about the build quality)
-> Battery is not the best, but is not horrible either. Would recommend trying it out first. For most people, it should not be a problem, However, it is so tiny that you can easily carry a couple of them with you. Wait for the prices to come down on the battery and snag a couple of them.
-> The silver is actually dark silver. You could even say its dark grey. Looks much better in reality than in pictures. Having said that, I think the Red would be sexy as well!
Verdict: Definite Buy!
143 of 154 people found the following review helpful.
Sony hits Grand Slam with DSC-TX7
Features of this product
- 3.5-inch touch screen for easy focus selection and photo viewing
- 10.2-megapixel “Exmor R” CMOS sensor for stunning low-light performance
- iSweep Panorama Mode captures stunning panoramic images
- Fast capture with 10fps at full 10.2 MP resolution; 1080i AVCHD Movie records high-quality HD movies
- Accepts Memory Stick Duo/Memory Stick PRO Duo/Memory Stick PRO-HG Duo (not included) as well as SDHC cards.
Point-and-shoot cameras are specially suitable for amateur and holiday photographers who want to get incredible pictures, but may want to get in to the technical details. With a compact size, easy-to-use user interface and incredible performance, these digital cameras correctly fit the bill. Point-and-shoot cameras are available in both basic and advanced modes. The basic ones are almost completely automated, so all you have to do is just point and capture. On the other hand, advanced ones have a few controls such as shutter speed, ISO and aperture that you can simply adjust.
That’s what you need to learn about Sony DSC-TX7 10.2MP CMOS Digital Camera with 4x Zoom with Optical Steady Shot Image Stabilization and 3.5 inch Touch Screen LCD (Blue). We provide you with what we know and practically that’s the unbiased fact you can use to determine whether this product well worth your cash of not. Using this information, you won’t make any bad decision. It is far better to not concerning much around the price when you’re conscious it values more. We are also recommending other reviews on similar products to give you fair comparison before you make the big decision. Such a great thing to talk about this with you. Possess a good day!